Cushion Cut vs Princess Cut Diamonds: A Calgary Goldsmith's Guide

By Ian Davidson

After the round brilliant, the cushion cut and the princess cut are the two most popular diamond shapes for engagement rings — and they couldn't feel more different. One is soft, warm, and romantic. The other is crisp, geometric, and bold. Understanding the real differences between them makes the choice much easier.

I'm Ian Davidson, a master goldsmith in Calgary with over 35 years of experience designing and building custom engagement rings. In this guide I'll walk you through how these two cuts compare across shape, sparkle, price, and setting — so you can make a confident decision.

What Is a Cushion Cut Diamond?

The cushion cut gets its name from its shape — square or rectangular with gently rounded corners, like a pillow. It evolved from the old mine cut, a style popular in the 1800s, which is why cushion cuts have a distinctly vintage character even in contemporary settings.

The facets on a cushion cut are larger and chunkier than those on a round or princess cut. This produces a different kind of sparkle — less sharp white flashes, more colourful fire. When light hits a cushion cut, you often see rich rainbow-like bursts rather than the tight pinpoint glitter of a modern brilliant cut. Many people find this warmer and more romantic.

Cushion cuts come in two proportions: square (close to 1:1 length-to-width ratio) and rectangular (anything above roughly 1.10). Both work well, and personal preference drives the choice.

Best for: People who want a vintage or romantic feel, love colourful sparkle over white brightness, and prefer softer silhouettes.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

The princess cut was developed in the early 1980s and became one of the most requested diamond shapes almost immediately. It's a square or slightly rectangular diamond with sharp, uncut corners and a facet pattern specifically engineered for brilliance — the reflection of white light.

Where the cushion cut has larger, open facets, the princess cut uses a chevron-style pattern that breaks light into many small, bright reflections. This gives it a sharp, high-contrast sparkle that reads as very lively and modern. The geometric outline also suits contemporary jewellery design — clean lines, minimal ornament.

One practical note: the pointed corners of a princess cut are a vulnerability. They can chip if the setting doesn't protect them properly. Four corner-prongs or a bezel setting is the right choice for a princess cut worn daily.

Best for: People who want a modern, bright, geometric look and prefer bold white sparkle over softer fire.

Cushion Cut vs Princess Cut: Sparkle

This is the most common question, and the answer depends on what you mean by sparkle.

The princess cut produces more brilliance — the bright white-light reflections that make a diamond appear to flash under direct light. Its facet pattern is very efficient at gathering and reflecting light, which is why it looks so lively.

The cushion cut produces more fire — the colourful, rainbow-like flashes that appear when light refracts through the stone. Fire is more visible under natural or warm lighting. Under spotlights or bright overhead lights, the princess cut tends to dominate. In candlelight or evening light, the cushion cut glows.

Neither is objectively superior. They're different personalities. I'd encourage anyone choosing between these two to look at both under the same lighting conditions rather than relying on photos or descriptions alone.

Cushion Cut vs Princess Cut: Price

Both cushion and princess cuts are generally less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds — often 20–30% less, depending on the stone. Between the two:

• Cushion cuts can be slightly less expensive because they preserve more of the rough diamond crystal during cutting, reducing waste.
• Princess cuts sometimes appear larger face-up than a cushion cut of the same carat weight, because the square outline sits closer to the outer edge of the stone. You may get more visible size for the same spend.

The real price driver for either cut is the same as for any diamond: the 4Cs — colour, clarity, cut quality, and carat weight. A well-cut cushion or princess cut in the right colour and clarity range is always a better investment than a larger stone with compromised grades.

Cushion Cut vs Princess Cut: Settings

The shape of the diamond should inform the design of the ring. These two cuts have different natural affinities when it comes to settings.

Cushion cut settings: The soft corners welcome decorative metalwork. Halos work especially well — the round halo shape mirrors the rounded outline of the stone. Pavé bands, vintage-style baskets, and six-prong Tiffany-style settings all complement the cushion's character. Yellow gold and rose gold enhance its warmth.

Princess cut settings: The sharp corners need protection first, aesthetics second. Four corner-prongs or a bezel setting are the safe choices for daily wear. Beyond that, the princess cut suits clean, architectural designs — thin solitaire bands, channel-set side stones, east-west orientations. White gold and platinum emphasize its crispness.

How to Choose Between Them

Here's the practical version. Ask yourself these questions:

• Do you want a ring that feels romantic and vintage, or modern and architectural? Cushion for the former, princess for the latter.
• Do you prefer colourful sparkle or bright white flash? Cushion for fire, princess for brilliance.
• Is the wearer active, working with their hands? If so, the cushion's rounded corners are more forgiving of minor impacts than the princess's pointed corners.
• Does maximum apparent size matter? A princess cut may give you more visible stone for the same carat weight.

There's no wrong answer. The right diamond is the one that suits the person who'll wear it every day — and that's a very individual thing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between a cushion cut and a princess cut diamond?

Cushion cut diamonds have soft, rounded corners and a pillow-like shape that gives them a romantic, vintage look. Princess cut diamonds have sharp square corners and a geometric facet pattern designed for maximum brightness. Both are square-ish shapes, but the cushion cut feels warmer and the princess cut feels crisper and more modern.

Which diamond cut sparkles more — cushion or princess?

Princess cut diamonds tend to produce more white-light brilliance because of their precisely angled facet pattern. Cushion cut diamonds produce more fire — the colourful rainbow flashes you see when light moves through the stone. Neither is objectively better; it comes down to the kind of sparkle you prefer.

Is a cushion cut or princess cut diamond more affordable?

Both cuts are generally priced below round brilliant diamonds. Cushion cuts can edge out princess cuts slightly in price because they retain more of the rough diamond during cutting. However, princess cuts often appear larger face-up for the same carat weight, which can offset that difference in perceived value.

Which cut looks larger — cushion or princess?

Princess cut diamonds typically appear larger face-up than cushion cuts of the same carat weight. Their flat top facet and geometric outline give them more visible surface area. That said, cushion cuts with a larger table percentage can also show impressive size.

What ring settings work best for cushion cut and princess cut diamonds?

Cushion cuts pair beautifully with halo settings, pavé bands, and vintage-style four-prong baskets — the rounded corners complement softer, more decorative designs. Princess cuts suit clean solitaires, bezel settings, and modern channel-set bands. Both can work in almost any setting, but the shape of the stone should guide the overall design direction.

Can I get a custom cushion cut or princess cut engagement ring made in Calgary?

Yes. Davidson Jewels in Calgary's East Village specializes in fully custom engagement rings. Master goldsmith Ian Davidson works with you one-on-one to select the right diamond shape, setting style, and metal for your ring — all made by hand in the studio.

Work With a Calgary Master Goldsmith

If you're trying to decide between a cushion cut and a princess cut for your engagement ring, a short conversation usually resolves it quickly. Seeing actual stones side by side — and talking through what matters to the person who'll wear the ring — makes the choice obvious.

Davidson Jewels is a by-appointment custom jewellery studio in Calgary's East Village. Every ring is designed and made by Ian Davidson personally. There's no retail floor, no sales pressure — just a focused conversation about what you want and how to build it.

Book a consultation to get started, or explore the custom engagement ring collection for inspiration.