How to Design a Custom Engagement Ring: 9 Steps | Calgary
The short answer: designing a custom engagement ring at Davidson Jewels in Calgary takes nine steps over six to ten weeks — (1) a free first consultation, (2) establishing the design direction, (3) selecting the centre stone, (4) choosing the metal, (5) hand sketches and CAD, (6) CAD deposit and approval, (7) casting and bench work, (8) stone setting and finishing, and (9) the handover. Typical commissions run $2,500 to $15,000+, with the centre stone driving most of the variation.
Most people walk into a custom engagement ring consultation with two things: a feeling about the person they love, and a quiet worry that they don't know enough about diamonds, metals, or design to make a good decision. That worry is misplaced. A good custom process is built to translate what you already know — your partner, your budget, your taste — into a ring that fits all three. You don't need to arrive an expert. You need a goldsmith who asks the right questions.
I've been making rings in Calgary since 1988, and at every consultation at the Davidson Jewels studio in East Village I walk clients through the same nine steps. Here they are, in the order they actually happen.
1. The first consultation (free)
Every custom engagement ring at Davidson Jewels starts with a 45 to 60 minute conversation, by appointment, at the studio at 533 Riverfront Ave SE in East Village. The consultation is free. There's no design talk yet — this step is about understanding the person the ring is for. I'll ask about:
- The wearer. What does your partner wear day to day? Do they work with their hands? What jewellery do they already love? Have they dropped hints (most people have)?
- Your budget. Honestly and without pressure. Knowing the number early shapes every choice that follows.
- Your timing. A proposal in six weeks looks different from a proposal in six months.
2. Establishing the design direction
Once I understand the wearer, we narrow the visual language together. You don't need vocabulary for any of this — I'll show you examples from past Davidson Jewels commissions and from the studio's collection. The decisions we work through include:
- Setting style: solitaire, three-stone, halo, bezel, or vintage-inspired
- Centre stone shape: round, oval, cushion, emerald, pear, marquise, or radiant
- Metal: 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum
- Aesthetic direction: vintage-inspired, classic, or clean and modern
- Side stones or accents: none, melee diamonds, or coloured accent stones
Most clients arrive thinking they have no preferences and leave this step with a clear direction.
3. Selecting the centre stone
The centre stone usually drives the rest of the design, so it comes early. For Davidson Jewels commissions, I source loose diamonds and coloured stones from trade suppliers I've worked with for decades — not from inventory sitting in a case. I'll show you several options in your budget side by side under proper lighting at the East Village studio. You'll see the differences between cuts, colours, and clarities with your own eyes — not on a spec sheet. Every diamond I source comes with a GIA or IGI certificate. I am not a gemologist, and I'll never pretend to be one; what I offer is 35+ years of judgement about which stones look alive in a ring and which fall flat.
4. Choosing the metal
Davidson Jewels works exclusively in 18k gold and platinum. There's a reason for that. 18k holds polish, ages well, and has the colour depth that lower karat alloys lack. Platinum is denser, hypoallergenic, and develops a soft patina some people prefer to high polish. We'll talk about your partner's skin tone, their existing jewellery, and whether they're hard on their hands. The metal choice affects how the ring wears for the next fifty years.
5. Sketches and CAD
With stone and metal chosen, I sketch the ring by hand at the studio bench first — quick pencil drawings to test proportions and silhouette. Once we agree on the direction, the design moves into CAD so you can see the ring rendered from multiple angles before any metal is touched. This is the step where you make small adjustments: a slightly lower setting, a thinner band, a hidden detail under the gallery. Two or three rounds of revision is normal at Davidson Jewels — refining the design before fabrication is far cheaper than changing it after.
6. CAD deposit and approval
The first consultation is free. Once we move into CAD work, I take a small deposit before starting — usually enough to cover the two or three hours of CAD time involved. The deposit isn't about the money; it's a signal that you're serious about the project and will come back to review the renderings. Most CAD work goes through two or three rounds of revision before final approval.
When you commit to building the ring, the payment structure changes. The main gems are paid for in full — diamonds and coloured stones are sourced specifically for your ring and aren't returnable to the supplier once ordered. The ring itself requires a 50% deposit at this stage, with the balance due on completion. Nothing is cast until all of this is signed off: the design, the stone, the metal, and the final price.
7. Casting and bench work
Once the design is approved and deposits are settled, the approved CAD is cast in your chosen 18k gold or platinum. From there, the real work begins at the bench in my Calgary studio. This is where 56 years of hands-on goldsmithing matters. Every Davidson Jewels custom ring is built by hand, by me — never outsourced. The bench work includes:
- Filing and shaping the cast piece
- Building and aligning the setting
- Soldering the gallery and any side-stone work
- Fitting the prongs to the exact dimensions of your specific stone
Most Davidson Jewels custom engagement rings spend between 20 and 40 hours at the bench before they're ready for stone setting.
8. Stone setting and finishing
After the ring's structure is complete, the centre stone is set — it goes in last because the setting has been built around the precise measurements of that specific stone. Side stones, if any, are set next. The ring is then finished to the surface treatment we agreed on at the design stage. Davidson Jewels offers several finishes for custom engagement rings:
- High polish — the traditional mirror finish
- Matte / satin — softer, less reflective, often chosen for active wearers
- Hammered — textured, more contemporary
- Mixed finish — combinations across the band and setting
The inside of the band is engraved last if you've requested it. Most clients add a date, initials, or a short phrase.
9. The handover
You collect the finished ring at the Davidson Jewels studio in East Village. We go through it together — the setting, the finish, the engraving, the fit of the box. Every custom engagement ring comes with:
- The GIA or IGI certificate for the centre stone
- A one-year warranty against defects in workmanship
- Lifetime access to the studio for cleaning, polishing, and minor adjustments
- A presentation box ready for the proposal
Most clients come back to Davidson Jewels for the wedding bands a few months later, and many return decades on for anniversary pieces. That's the part of the process that doesn't end at the handover.
How long does the whole process take?
From first consultation to finished ring, plan for six to ten weeks. Rushed timelines are possible in some cases — if you have a proposal date locked in, tell me at the first appointment and we'll work backwards from it.
What does a custom engagement ring cost?
Typical commissions at Davidson Jewels fall between $2,500 and $15,000+, with the centre stone driving most of the variation. A detailed breakdown of where the money goes is covered in the custom engagement ring cost guide.
Ready to start?
The first consultation is free and runs about an hour. You don't need to arrive with a design in mind — that's what the conversation is for. Book a time that works for you through the studio's online calendar, or visit Davidson Jewels at 533 Riverfront Ave SE in Calgary's East Village.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to know what kind of ring I want before the first appointment?
No. Most clients arrive with only a vague sense of direction, and that's exactly the right starting point. The first appointment is built to help you discover what you want, not to test what you already know.
Can I bring inherited stones or old jewellery to use in the design?
Yes. Repurposing heirloom diamonds, gold, or sentimental pieces is one of the most rewarding parts of custom work. Bring whatever you have to the first appointment and we'll assess what can be reused.
What's the difference between custom and "semi-custom" engagement rings?
Semi-custom usually means picking a centre stone and dropping it into a manufacturer's pre-made setting. Custom at Davidson Jewels means every dimension of the ring is designed around the specific stone and the specific hand it will sit on. Nothing is pre-made.
Will my partner be able to resize the ring later?
Most custom rings can be resized one or two sizes up or down without compromising the design. Eternity bands and some intricate settings are exceptions. We'll discuss resizability during the design step if it matters to you.
How does payment work?
The first consultation is free. A small deposit is taken before CAD work begins to cover the design time. When you commit to building the ring, the main gems are paid for in full — they're sourced specifically for your piece and can't be returned — and the ring itself requires a 50% deposit, with the balance due on completion. Nothing is cast or set until everything is signed off.
What certification comes with the diamond?
Every diamond I source — mined or lab-grown — comes with a GIA or IGI certificate of quality documenting the cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. You'll see the certificate before you commit to the stone, and it stays with the ring as part of its documentation.
What happens if I don't like the final CAD?
You don't pay a deposit until the CAD is approved. If the design isn't right, we revise it. If after several rounds it still isn't right, you walk away owing nothing. That's the point of the approval step.